histories

Michael King (1999). Being Pakeha now : reflections and recollections of a white native, p105

I had been thinking about specific situations that would lend themselves to exposition on television. There was Herepo Rongo in Raglan, for example . . . I had met her at that first tangi I had attended at Poihakena marae in Raglan in 1968. . . she was a beautiful and large hearted woman. But the course of her life had given her every cause for anger, and for distrust of Pakeha officialdom. In microcosm, her life mirrored the history of many Maori people and communities over eighty years. She had been born, she told me, at Horea, site of an old Methodist mission station on the northern head of Raglan Harbour, which she always referred to by its old name, Whaingaroa. Later, she had lived on family land (ownership of which eventually passed to her) high on the coast between Raglan and Whale Bay. Later still, during the Depression, she joined her husband on her father-in-law's property at Paitikirau on the northern side of the harbour. She bore 9 children and buried 6 of them under the pine tree that was the family burial plot there. Then came further troubles. A Native Land Court agent, Tony Ormsby of Ngati Maniapoto, persuaded her father-in-law, Mokomoko, to put his mark on a piece of paper, explaining that it would provide him with a pension. The old man was unable to read, but duly marked the document. In fact it was a deed transferring ownership of the land to Ormsby, who resold it to a Pakeha farmer. The whole family, angry but ignorant about how to seek redress, were forced to leave their homes.

They settled again on the Raglan side of the harbour, at the Tainui Awhiro community around Miria Te Kakara meeting house and marae. Here they were disturbed again. With the approach of WW2, the Dept of Civil Aviation was establishing emergency landing strips down the coast and the Raglan County Council offered the land around Miria Te Kakara. The whole community was paid compensation and shifted, though Herepo refused to accept any of the Government's money ('black pennies' she called it: tainted money). The only consolation was that Civil Aviation promised to return the land to Tainui Awhiro once it was no longer required for the war effort.

The end of the war brought further duplicity, however. The land was given to the Raglan Aero Club, who leased it to the Raglan Golf Club. Not only did Herepo not get her home and marae back, she was confronted by the sight of Maori and Pakeha golfers (but mainly Pakeha) hitting golf balls over the community's urupa. Not only had the living been insulted but the dead were now being desecrated. When she tried to move back onto the land she had inherited on the coast she found that the Maori trustee had transferred her shares to a nephew. She had no legal right to live there any more. (She had been notified of the application for this transfer by letter but she, like her father-in-law, was unable to read.) Finally, she acquired a house below Eva Rickard's on the hill at Te Kopua, overlooking the golf course whose very existence distressed her so much.

When he read this extract at the Words on Wheels meeting in the library earlier this year, Michael said he had since done more research and discovered that the Raglan airstrip was just one of 7 possible sites considered. The others were rejected. They were occupied by Pakeha farmers

Notes from John Lawson June 2004
Early settlement In the sand dunes on the northern side of Raglan Harbour, stone adzes and other artefacts, believed to have been in use between the 11th and 12th centuries, have come to light. Tainui canoe voyaged down west coast to Kawhia, but Rakataura and 9 others left at Otahuhu, where the canoe was dragged across from Hauraki to Manukau Harbour, crossed to the Waikato and followed it to Hakarimata, then along the ridges to Pirongia, Karioi (where he named Raglan Harbour Whangaroa - Long Harbour) to join the rest of the canoe at Kawhia. 5 or 6 generations later, Tainui villages were to be found in the Karioi district and along the shores of Whaingaroa, where many pa sites remain. European contact Abel Tasman saw Mt Karioi on 28th December 1642 and Cook named the peninsula Woody Head on 11th January 1770. Europeans were at Kawhia and Port Waikato trading flax, etc, when James Wallis set up a Wesleyan mission station on the north side of the Harbour in 1836, which was re-established in 1838 in what is now Raglan West. On 25 May 1850 Wiremu Neera, acting for Ngati Mahanga, sold 19,680 acres to the Government, bounded by the Opotoru, Takapanui, Kauroa and Waitetuna. £200 was paid, and between £50 and £100 was given towards building a meeting house in Nero Street. The Harbour Board land bounded by the jetty, footbridge, Nero St, Wainui Rd and Bow St was reserved for Te Awaitaia (Wiremu Neera), together with 3 other blocks. On June 16th 1852 sections between the Bowling Club and Te Aro Aro Bay were sold, Rev. James Wallis being the first purchaser. In 1858 Whaingaroa became Raglan and by 1860 had 7 or 8 houses, a store, tavern and 120 Europeans within a few miles. In 1863 Raglan had 3 stores, 3 pubs and 9 or 10 other buildings, including stables and about 100 of William Naylor’s tribe. 1874 52 dwellings 112 population. By 1924 the 1901 population of 114 people had increased to more than twice that number and, 50 years later 1080 people lived in the vicinity of the harbour. In 2001 Raglan had 2667 permanent residents. Nero St The Redoubt was built on native reserve protected by a deep trench with the earth thrown back and the cliff on the harbour side. The Blockhouse was used as a Courthouse and lockup. In January 1864 a 2 storey wooden blockhouse was built on the court site by 200 soldiers and, after a meeting on 14/5/67 to discuss the threat from Kawhia, the blockhouse was strengthened, its walls loop-holed in places and a ditch 10 ft deep and wide dug. A Maori meeting house was erected in Nera Street, about the same time, known as Naylor's or Te Awaitaia House. He died there in 1866. It burnt down about 1886.

Raglan 1880 to 1890 as I remember it - W.F. Wallis. Probably some of the buildings had been removed before 1880, but the town as I remember it was as follows. Opposite the Court was an old Maori dwelling, in front of which stood the monument erected to Wiremu Naylor. Behind this, facing Green Street (Wainui Rd) was an old shed. On the opposite side of Green Street was a fairly large dwelling, owned by Gilmours. Mr Frissel lived nearby in a small cottage. Between Frissel's cottage and the school-grounds was another building. Between this and the Opotoru Creek was the Public Pound. The school and Headmaster's residence was in the same position as today. (This was written in 1944). There was another house on the hill between the School and the site of the present Opotoru traffic bridge. I think it belonged to the Wesleyan Mission Board. Later the Wesleyans abandoned the Raglan circuit, and a few years later the Congregationalists took over. The wharf was at the western end of Cliff Street, about the site of the present jetty. The ferry service to Te Akau and across the Opotoru inlet would start from the wharf or the nearby sandy beach. The chief business centre of Raglan was just above the wharf, at the corner of Cliff and Wallis Streets. At the extreme corner was a large wooden building owned by Gilmour Brothers, used as a general store, Post Office and library. Adjoining this store, the Royal Hotel faced Cliff Street. The hotel's stables with a large shed and a loft backed on to Wallis Street. Gilmour's store also went through to Wallis Street. About 1886 Charles Sutton erected a small store in Cliff Street, and in 1887 Arthur and Ernie Wallis built 'Jubilee Cottage'. Further along Dick Galvan's dwelling and blacksmith's shop was reached — having been the site of Dick's father's home and smithy. Further along some old houses were occupied by Maoris. Near the corner of Cliff and James Streets, stood the Gilmour family residence, once used as a store (most Gilmour's store). Early in the 1890's T.B. Hill built his chemist's shop in Cliff Street. About 1886 Charles Sutton built a dwelling opposite the present Bryant Rest Home, on the corner of James and Cliff Streets. The only other building in Cliff Street was an old cottage in the Rev. J. Wallis' paddock. In Wallis Street, Powell's Hall — a large two storey building stood next to the Royal Hotel stables. The hall was used for meetings, entertainments and dances. Mr Powell was a chemist — he had a dispensary and shop on the bottom floor. Nearby was the Old Stone Jug. The only buildings in Bow Street were the Harbour View Hotel and Mr Bulford's home at the corner of Bow and John Streets. In the 1890's a store was erected near the Harbour View Hotel and later others followed. None of the roads were formed or graded except by the wheel traffic. War memorial & palms The war memorial was unveiled on April 29th 1922 by the Governor-General, Viscount Jellicoe. The main street consisted of a rough metal road each side, divided by a large area of clay in the middle. Some of the local boys decided to beautify the street for this special occasion, so they went off to the bush and brought home pongas and mamakus complete with foliage. These were installed up the middle of the street, and were admired by all, including Lady Jellicoe. When she asked if they were permanent, she was assured that they were. At the next Town Board meeting members decided they had better do something about making them permanent, so the phoenix palms were then planted. 5 Sushi Bar Brothers W.J. and Alf Smith built many local buildings about 1900. They ran Smith's Supply Stores on the corner of Bow and Nera Streets. Smiths and Gilmours were then the main stores in Raglan. Smiths' was sold to the Farmers Trading Company about 1919, Guy Nicholson about 1950, George Graham in 1959 and Nev Meekings in 1969, who moved further up Bow Street and closed the old shop. Library From 1st March 1894 the Post Office was in premises leased the corner of Nera and Bow Streets from Raglan County Council,. About 1910 a candle, used to select a coat from a wardrobe, started a fire and another Post Office was converted to ashes. A new office on this corner opened in 1914. In view of the fact that so many buildings had been burnt in Raglan, the Department wisely built this of brick, finished externally with cement plaster. The building was a combined office, Postmaster's residence and telephone exchange. This office served the town and district well for 64 years. It would not burn so they had to wreck it. A pity, as it was quite a landmark in the town. Now a new office is rising — this will be the third on this site. The contractor is Foster Construction Ltd. It should be completed and back in business by 1982. Is this the same building now forming the library? 7 Raglan Video - La Trobes Buildings These buildings next to the Post Office burnt down about 1930. About 1940 Bob Lovegrove opened a land agency here. He also cut hair and made boot polish in his spare time. From 1955 the site was used for Robertsons and then Pavlovich buses into the 1980s. The video shop was built in 2003. 8-9 Video shop to 2003 11 Roll up, formerly Raglan veg store, Cut above hair saloon - what else? 13 Scintilla Urchin 1998-2003 when name changed 15 Trade Aid Eva Rickard involved 17 Aqua Velvet Robert Gilmour opened store 1854. From 1875 the Post Office was part of Gilmour's store, on the corner of Bow and Cliff Streets, until destroyed by fire when it moved to the Library site. Bob and Charlie Gilmour returned in 1902 and opened a general store on the corner of Bow and Green Streets. When this was burnt in 1921 they moved to temporary premises nearby. They rebuilt and moved back to the corner of Green and Bow Streets in 1928. The Book and Gift Centre moved from 19 Bow St about 1960 or 1954? and was owned by Peter Burton, Captain and Betty Riggir, Richard Smith and Mary Beach before crossing another road to its present shop next to the chemist in 2000? It became another café, Molasses until November 2002. 19 Tongue & Groove was built by Dando in 1902. After A.R. Langley's death, his daughter, Mrs Gordon and her 2 children — Jack and Lilian ran the business for a few years. Langley's corner store was a local institution, full of old books and lots of junk. After Bob Stewart bought this block he continued to run this business for a while — later clearing out a lot of the junk and with Brian Banks, opened a billiard saloon here. The book shop was sold to Bill Gilling by 1949. Bill (or Peter?) later moved to 17 Bow St. 1989 Raglan Power Machinery. 19A Jet part of Langley’s auction? 21 Raglan Dealers built from pine milled on Frank Lorenzen’s farm about 1950. 23 Duck Inn In the late 1920's Mrs Fuller and her daughter Alison opened tearooms in La Trobe's buildings. When these were destroyed by fire Fullers moved to Langley's block, where they continued the business until they sold to Bob and Pat Stewart in 1939. Stewarts developed a flourishing business here before they sold to Win Bowman, who later sold it to Claude Price. Greg Lind then bought it and he ran it for twenty years. Greg named it "The Duck Inn". It is now run by Scott. 25 Herbal Dispensary In 1927 a vacant section saved Earl cabinet maker, McLaughlin's saddlery, Raglan Dairy Co and Langley's Auction Mart and Book Shop from the fire further up Bow St. Was this the cabinet maker, or the tailor? Between the saddler and the Auction Mart was Jimmy Laughton's tailor’s shop. He died in 1933, but his wife kept the shop open for a few more years. Lions Raglan Lions Club started in 1972. 31 Hairdresser when the Commercial Bank opened in 1926 the Dairy Company changed from B.N.Z. to C.B.A. The Commercial Bank also gained many customers as most farmers were suppliers of the Dairy Company, and were reluctant to pay the sixpence exchange then charged on cheques payable in another town. In 1936 it was converted to an agency of the Hamilton Branch. On 19th March 1951 the branch re-opened in leased premises here, formerly a saddlers. In 1972 the Raglan Branch was again converted back to an agency of Hamilton. The C.B.A. and the Bank of N.S.W. amalgamated in October 1982 to form the Westpac Bank. 33 Fish & chip shop Ken Andrew bought the Raglan Dairy Company's office in Bow Street, and converted it into a restaurant where Mrs Andrew cooked excellent fish and chips. 35 Dept of Food June 2002. When were 35-39 rebuilt after the 1927 fire? 37 estate agents 39 Post Shop Les Riley bought Hardey's drapery, followed by Claude Webb, Max Monkley, and Dick Clarke in the 1970s. 41 Town Hall The first Raglan Town Board was elected in the early 1880's. In 1886 the Town Board and the Karioi Highway Board were merged into the Raglan County Council. In 1906 residents opted for local control. In 1912 Raglan Town Hall Company Ltd. sold the hall to the Town Board for £436. A.J. Steadman's £8/6/- tender to concrete 360 square feet of footpath outside the Town Hall was accepted May 28th 1917. A 1927 fire, started in Hardey Brothers drapery shop, spread to the Chronicle Office, the Town Hall and the Women's Rest Rooms. All these buildings were completely demolished. The 1929 art deco Municipal Offices were built by Waikato Joinery and Timber Company for £3,185 15s T.S. Cray was the architect. It housed the Library (museum 1966-80, Environment Centre since 2001), Majestic Cinema (closed 1975, but the box office window can be seen) and the ladies toilets were where Raglan Community Radio (founded 1994) now broadcasts. 43 Plunket Rooms Were the burnt women’s rest rooms for the same purpose on the same site? Plunket rooms were established in 1944 here at an estimated cost of £38,000. 45 Community House built by volunteers about 1982. 44-48 St Peter’s St Peters was dedicated by His Grace Archbishop A.W. Averill on the 3rd May 1925. Built on land donated by Dr Sanders, the church cost £1000 and furnishings £300. The Vestry/Guild Room was added to St Peters in 1954. It was designed by Neil Gavin and built by G. Bleaken and Son at a cost of £640. 32 RAPT After the 1927 fire the Chronicle office was rebuilt across the road — Jehovah Witness Chapel 1962-2002. 32 Westpac Bank 26 Bow St Gallery since 1981. Was butchery. 22-24 Raglan Club founded in 1956 and gradually enlarged. In 1981 the old house was demolished and replaced with a modern building providing an office, toilet block, dining room and kitchen. It was further extended in 2002. 20 Bow St Motors In 1955 Jack and Ernie Amoore built this garage when their Robertson Garage was bought by Petchells. In 1975 Amoore Brothers sold this business to David and Edna Brown. Rob Cowley stopped selling petrol in 2003, when the tanks needed replacing. In 2004 Raglan Chronicle moved into the former Shell shop. 16-18 Raglan Supermarket Donald Cameron and Walter Moon's store beside the Harbour View Hotel was acquired about 1918 to garage Robertson’s cars and bought and demolished in 1955 for the new supermarket. Alf Curtis’ 1907 shop and tearooms was run by Mrs Richards, Cowleys and O.C. Koed before being sold to Mary and William J. Petchell in 1924. With their 3 children, Phyllis, Frank and Eric they moved into the house attached to the shop. After Frank died in 1972, Eric ran the business until his son Wayne bought it in 1977 and sold it in 2003. 14 Harbour View Hotel was built when George Moon moved to Raglan in 1866. It burnt down in 1904 and was replaced by the present identical hotel. 1904 Chronicle - the architect for Nathan’s is staying in Raglan making plans to rebuild the Harbour View Hotel. 12 First National 10 Raglan Book & Gift Centre moved 2000? 8 Chemist In 1947 Les Day opened a chemist's shop which developed into a flourishing business in Bow Street. Les gave good service here until 1959, when he sold to Ralph and Avril Blanchard. 4-6 Bakery 2 Show off In the 1960s, women chained themselves to the pohutukawa and puriri trees in the main street to save them from being felled by Raglan County Council. The protest succeeded and the trees remain. 3 Bow St At the foot of Bow St on the land between the Raglan Service Station and Nero St was the site chosen by A R Langley for his first milling venture in 1894. Most of the timber was cut above Maungatawhiri on William Wallis’ farm. This was snigged by bullocks to Takapanui and rafted from there down the Opotoru estuary. A tramline ran from the mill to the beach and the logs were hauled up to the mill by the 14 hp steam engine which powered the plant. Walter Morgan was mill manager. Owing to the difficulty of supplying logs, Langley moved this mill to Pond’s farm at Kauroa. 3 Raglan Service Station G.S. Fuller opened a garage in the Old Stone Jug (Masonic Lodge to 1929). He later built this garage, which was sold in 1935 to A.A. Edwards and Sons, Laurie Hall, Jim Meekings, Lenroy Motors (Len Meekings and Roy Bowditch), Smith and Matthews, Mike Robbs (it became the depot and headquarters for the Vet Club), Bert Rhodes, Jack Vlas, J. & D. Montgomery and in 1983 to J.A. and S.A. Hart. Amoore Cottage 1A Bow Street was at one time occupied by a blacksmith. The school house moved from Aramiro to its present address in 1910 by horse transport. The ‘top’ storey was added in 1996. 1 Bow St In 1874 ten Government prefabricated cottages were shipped from Onehunga to Raglan, to accommodate expected immigrants. These cottages were built of first class kauri, fitted together with brass screws — no nails being used in their construction. However as the immigrants did not arrive and the local folk had no housing shortage, the cottages lay on the waterfront while the Government looked for a way to get rid of them. This cottage was given to Te Uku (then called Waitetuna) for a teacher's residence. When a new Te Uku school was built, Peter Middlemiss moved this cottage it to the bottom of Bow Street. Salt Rock café Robert Gilmour opened store 1854. In 1875 the Post Office was part of Gilmour's store, on the corner of Bow and Cliff Streets. This block was destroyed by fire about 1896. The Centennial Milk Bar was built in 1955. Is the whole block 1955? Jetty The first jetty was built at the foot of Bow Street, about a chain or so east of the present jetty. Small ships could use it for loading and unloading at high tide, but larger ships would anchor in the channel and barges or small boats transferred goods. In 1890 the long wharf was completed. In Dec 1906 the Town Board agreed to £1 per month to carry on Mr Baker’s penny ferry from the present jetty to Kopua, until opening of the Opotoru bridge. On 2nd February 1935 the Wallis descendants erected a memorial to commemorate the missionary's arrival in 1834 in the form of seat set in concrete, with a tablet. Footbridge The footbridge was built in 1929 for about £2,500. The foundations were insufficient and salt water and black sand were used for mixing the cement. In 1947 the bridge was stripped down and patched, but reinforcing steel was exposed as more concrete flaked off. In May 1962 it was closed as unsafe. The old bridge was removed and a new one built in 1963 for £11,000. Te Kopua The 44½ acre Papahua Block was given by the Maori owners to the Town Board on 10th February 1923 "To be a playground for Raglan people of both races for all time." Memorial After Te Awaitaia died in 1866, the Government erected the monument to his memory. It was originally situated a few yards from the site of his Meeting House, but moved to allow more parking about 1998 - erected by a grateful government to the memory of "Wiremu Nero Te Awataia who died April 27th 1886, always a firm friend of the Europeans and a Chief of much influence." - the Chief's name in reality being the Maori version of 'William Naylor', the phonetic rendering of which should read 'Neera', having no association with the imperial violinist of ancient Rome. Te Awaitaia's main Ngati-Mahanga Pa was at Ohiapopika and he is buried at Tahua Point, Papahua, Raglan. The Taranaki leader Te Raparapa was killed by Te Awaitaia who was awarded the leadership of the tribes from Aotea and Raglan to Waipa. He was one of the Rev. James Wallis' first converts to Christianity. While on a visit to Kawhia to meet and support Sir George Grey in his talks with the Kingites, in April 1866, Wiremu Neera was taken ill with fever. He was carried to Raglan on a stretcher and died on the 28th April 1866. A letter from Raglan written on that date mentions, "There is a great deal of fever among the natives here. They are dying at the rate of three each day, and at Aotea and Kawhia much faster." Camp ground About 1938 the camping ground on Kopua was organised by the County Council. A cookhouse, showers and toilets were built. In 1950 £10 was donated to buy pohutukawa trees to beautify the camp ground. Since 1952 it has been run by the Raglan Domain Board. Pill box One of 2 on Wainamu beach built in 1941. It was up on the dunes, but erosion and an attempt by the army to blow it up have left it on the beach. There is a plan to spend $30,000 to restore it to a higher position. Airfield When the lights of Japanese warships could be seen off Raglan, there was concern that damaged aircraft may need emergency runways. 7 possible sites along the coast were identified. Raglan was the only site not used for farming and in Maori ownership. The Crown took the former papakainga (village) on 16.9.41 and bulldozers crossed the estuary at low tide to form 2 runways. In 1968 Civil Aviation agreed to use of the western runway for an 18 hole golf course completed by 1973. Following protest lead by Eva Rickard and, as the land had been acquired for war purposes, Government decided it should be handed back to the original owners and the present course on Te Hutewai Rd officially opened on the 10th December 1983. Aerodrome Bridge rebuilt 1992. Was the original built 1941 by the US army? Marine Parade The cutting at the junction with Wainui Rd was presumably the source of fill for the bank leading to the bridge. Bob Vernon records a barge load of ironstone being taken from this area. Nihinihi James Wallis was born at Blackwall, London in 1809, ordained in 1834 and volunteered as a Wesleyan Missionary. He arrived at Hokianga on the 1st December 1834, went to Kawhia by ship and thence overland to open a mission station at Te Horea, on the north shore of the harbour. Because of a difference with the Anglicans over spheres of influence, this station was closed in 1836. In 1839 the difference was resolved and the Wallis family welcomed back to Waingaroa. However, as the buildings had deteriorated, it was decided to rebuild the Mission on 90 acres purchased at Nihi Nihi for fish hooks, tobacco, pipes, spades, etc. A large raupo church was built. Owing to ill-health he was transferred to Onehunga in 1863 and died in 1895. The mission house burnt down in 1889 and the 90 acres was subdivided to form Raglan West from the late 1940s. On the 12th October 1957 a memorial cairn [about a metre high of red brick in a front garden on the right of Wainui Rd on the hill from Marine Parade up to the shops] was unveiled on the site of the Nihi Nihi Mission Station. One 1874 immigrant cottage was given to Ruapuke where it served as a teacher's residence for many years. It was later moved to Raglan West where it is still used for a holiday cottage. Opotoru Bridge The 1907 bridge was replaced in 1954 after a truck had crashed off the old wooden bridge in 1953 drowning father and daughter. School The school moved from Stewart St to this site from 1939 after secondary education started in Raglan. Union church The 1895 Unity church was so named when the Methodist and Congregational churches merged in 1947 St Lazarus Village for the elderly on the site of an Ellis and Burnand (one of the main companies formerly trading in logs from the bush) timber yard. Stewart St James St and Robert St are all named after members of the Stewart family who settled from Rothesay in the 1850s. Museum The first fire engine was bought in 1953 for £2, 500. The 1956 fire station in Green Street was condemned and is now the Raglan Museum. It was the site of the stock pound Fire station The new fire station cost $150,000. St Johns Ambulance (first Raglan ambulance 1975) asked if they could share the building and special permission was granted. It is also the headquarters of the Sea Rescue Group. The Raglan Senior Citizens sold the building at Raglan West and they contributed $4,000 towards the seating in the social hall. Most of the work on the building was completed by voluntary labour, under the supervision of a master builder. In 1982 the station was opened by the Prime Minister, the Rt. Hon. R.D. Muldoon. Bankart St named after W M Bankart, a councillor after 1900. Vinnies was the first of the tourist cafes, which, since 1986, have become ever more common and marked the change from a working town to a holiday town. It is in an 1874 immigrant cottage, which, after the wars, when the government couldn’t find enough settlers, was bought by the Church of England as their church for 52 years and then the Parish Hall for 20 years. The rose window behind the bar remains from its time as a church.The Raglan District High School used this building when secondary school classes began in 1935. It was later used as a Youth Hall by the Union Church. Later it became a store. Eva Rickard converted it into a Treasure Chest or Waka Huia. James La Trobe, Master of Raglan School wrote in his diary in October 1889; "After school I went to tennis court for my first try" Since the thirties the popularity of tennis has declined, and the courts which were built on Harbour Board land, have disintegrated - now the site of the 1973 telephone exchange. Volcom Alley opened November 2002.